Griffen is still sick-but he troops along anyway. We started him on a re-hydration sachet.
After breakfast (bread, oj, hard boiled egg and coffee) and meeting the rest of our tour group (3 families-18 people) we pile into some caleshes for a tour around the 'red city.' There is so much going on-I can hardly take it all in: Men wearing the traditional djellaba cloak, women wearing head scarves, donkey carts full of people, bikes, men pushing carts full of food, cars, horns, scooters carrying anything from food to entire families. All three kids are wide eyed and silent.
We are let off at the Djemaa el Fna-an open square full of snake charmers, monkey handlers, musicians, produce sellers, and more. All will pose for a photo-and that is how they make their living.
From here we head into the souks-each little alley devoted to a different craft-tea pots, leather, pottery, souvenirs and food. The alleys are crammed with people battling for space to walk between the random scooter, carts of goods and the occasional sheep. It was so intense, Kaitlyn soaked it all in without her usual litany of complaints.
We stopped in a Berber pharmacy where we got to sample a few items and purchase spices. Jas & I got neck massages for 20 dirhams each-about $2.50. We also bought 30 grams of saffron threads for what 2 grams would cost in the US.

After the souks we made our way back to the Djemaa. A quick picture with he snake charmers-I gave him 20 dh and he asked for 20 more. I said no and the guide came to our rescue, said we paid enough and we walked away.
Time for lunch. Griff had 1/2 a Sprite, Jilly had some bread, Kaitlyn ate pizza while Jas & I went for the traditional tajines. These are dishes cooked in a tahine pot for a long time at low temps. Mine was chicken with lemons and Jason got beef. The meals came with 3 baskets of bread-which all the moms stored away in their backpacks for future use.
Here our guide left us on our own till later that night. Previously he told us to only take petit taxis and to make sure they had a meter. HA. The petit taxi drivers all told us they could only take 3 people we had to take a grand taxi-and they don't have meters. We told him where our hotel was-there are 3 here with the same name so we had to make sure he got the right one-and agreed on a price. Although Dirhams are the local currency they will take Euros quite readily as well.
Back at the hotel Griff and Jilly napped, Jason and Kaitlyn went to the store for snack and then to find a garden while I wrote and watched from the window.

The hotel was not in a nice fancy area, but there was a grocery right next door and it was within walking distance of the Jardin Majorelle. The Jardin is a sub-tropical garden offering a peaceful getaway from the craziness of Marrakech.
My views out the window: I watched a man with a sheep appear and wait on the side of the road for a taxi. Once one stopped for him, he tied the legs of the sheep together and put it in the trunk of the taxi and off they went. Must have something to do with the sheep festival. Two groups of people were waiting for a taxi-as one pulled over both groups ran towards it and then argued over it. While they argued, the taxi left. At any given time there are 20 or so buses coming and going. A truck goes by loaded with plastic crates 16 long, 8 high and 6 across each full of oranges and nothing secured. A man driving a scooter with flats of eggs 10 high in front and two such stacks behind him. A old woman pushing a man in a wheelchair up the street amongst the other traffic.
After our rest we went for a walk around our hotel, an area called Bab Doukkala. This area is definitely poor. There was rubbish everywhere-the sidewalks filled with dust, old bits of food, trash, stray cats. Street vendors lined one street with wooden carts full of bananas, mandarins, dates, figs. Every doorway was full of craftsmen-woodcarvers, slipper makers, butchers. People were even selling just piles of straw. We had Jilly in the backpack and several women were eyeing it-they all had their young ones in slings across the back. We saw maybe 3-4 other westerners walking about-yet we felt safe. The locals might be staring but they were smiling as well. Several children even yelled "Bonjour" to us. We had to constantly dodge scooters-some carrying the driver with a child standing in front of him and the mom in back either holding another child or large bags in each hand. A smell invades us-raw meat, spices, sheep, smoke, there are so many cats you can actually smell them. Is this the smell of poverty?
Just as we were walking back to the hotel a man turned and smiled and patted Griffen on the head. He stopped ahead of us and came back to kiss him on the cheek with a big smile. We told Griffen it was good luck.

For dinner the hotel recommended a restaurant on the edge of the Djemaa. After watching the difficulty locals had catching a taxi, we asked a man in front of the hotel to help us flag a taxi. After about 10 minutes a man pulls up in a car and they all smile saying, "welcome, Marrakech taxi." We piled in and agree on a price-Jason just showing him what we thought was reasonable. As we are driving to the Djemaa-I tell Jason that there are no taxi markings on the car and I think we just hitched a ride with a total stranger.
The Djemaa was alive with activity-even more so than earlier today. The center area was transformed with hundreds of tables filled with dinners and men flagging us down to entice us to their table. The smoke from the outdoor grills is so thick it stings the eyes. The musicians, dancers, and storytellers were entertaining locals as well as tourists.
The restaurant was nice-tile walls, pillow lined seating along the walls. There was a set menu, but they let the kids just eat off our plates and also let us order a side of couscous for them as well. There were two musicians entertaining the guests as well-taking turns playing the qraqeb (metal cymbals) and the guinbri (3 string guitar type instrument), singing and swinging their heads ever so slightly making a large tassel on their fez hats swing around in unison. When they are finished and second set come in playing drums. After a short break the drummers come back with a belly dancer. Once Jillian saw her she said, "mommy when you are going to sign me up for that?" I know belly dancers aren't Moroccan, but it was fun. She tried to get Griffen to dance with her, but he refused. He'll regret that when he's 16.
Walking to the taxi stand after dinner a small boy no bigger than Jillian approaches us, hands out begging. He is alone. Once he realizes we won't give him money, he kisses Jillian on the cheek and walks away. It is hard not to give all the begging children money, but our tour leader as well as everything we have read warns against giving to them, it only encourages them.
All this in one day.