Originally we had planned to go to Rome today for Stations of the Cross at the Colosseum. Problem with that plan is the last train to Orvieto leaves Rome at 8:30 and Stations are not until 9 and only an insane person would attempt to drive. The priest from the English College in Rome calls and confirms that our tickets have been delivered for Sunday Mass.
We start the morning off at the train station cafe for espresso and bomboloni. We have found that even the train stations make better coffee than the US, the trick is shorter pulls on the shots. Bomboloni are donuts made with a dense brioche type dough, fried of course, filled with jelly, chocolate or custard and sprinkled with sugar. They are the lightest, airiest jelly or custard donut you could ever imagine. We finish off with fresh squeezed blood orange juice.
Jillian decides now would be a good time for a fit-over what I have no idea. A gentleman standing next to us speaking Italian surprises us and starts talking to us in perfect English. Turns out he's some American musician/actor that had been living in Italy for 12 years. He tells me that he was the baby of his family and his sister tells him all the time that he cried quite frequently. Great. He complements us on our kids good looks and tells us to enjoy our stay.
Jillian was just hungry- a glass of milk and a box of crackers later she is just fine. We head up the hill in the funicular and remember to take the bus this time as well. Once in the main square we search for a pharmacy to purchase tissues (Jason & I got colds) and sunscreen (not used to needing that).
We then find the TI office to purchase tickets for the underground tour of Orvieto. While in line Jason talks with another American who tells him how to find a farmhouse to rent for long term and larger groups. We wander around a bit until it is time for the tour to leave.
The guide takes us into some caves under the city. The caves date back to Etruscan times. Later, it is believed that the caves were formed as a way of using building materials for houses and then serving as cellars for food (and wine) storage. We saw evidence of an old olive press, dovecots and wells.
Lunch time. We buy the kids pizza and they eat it on the steps of the Duomo while we sit across from them at a cafe enjoying a pecorino cheese sandwich on fresh farmhouse bread and some Orvieto wine. Back down the hill and into the car for a trip to Civita di Bagnoregio.
The stupid navigation system thinks we are going somewhere else and we end up taking the back way-a winding road in the middle of nowhere with no one on it. Jason called it 'Europe through the window.' Driving through Bagnoregio, a suburb of Civita, we notice the main street is blocked off. I assume this is for the night procession of Stations of the Cross. It is so nice to be in a Catholic country for Holy Week.
Civita is a traffic-free village, the only way in is to walk up a pedestrian bridge. As we reach the top we see a procession approaching us. Leading the procession is a priest surrounded by robbed men and boys. Following them are some men carrying a large wooden 'stretcher' with Jesus lying on it. Townspeople singing follow them. All the tourists step aside and solemnly watch them down the pedestrian bridge and into town.
We turn and walk into this dying village, home to only 14 residents. During peak tourist season you can peak in on an old olive press (1500 years). Last time Jason and I were here we paid the owner 1 Lira to see it and guess at his explanation on how a blindfolded donkey walking in a circle, crushing the olives. Since it is Good Friday and so late in the day, the few new eateries are closed, so we just walk around and step into the church. The crucifix, from the 15th century, is carved out of peach wood and venerated by the locals. I read later that it is the focus of a midnight procession on Good Friday. We walk back to the car and drive to Orvieto for dinner. This time we park ourselves at the top so we don't have to worry about missing the last funicular.
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