We get an early start and eat another breakfast in the train station before hopping a train to Rome. The train takes about an hour. Once in Rome, we feed the kids at the train station, get some money and make a pit stop. We warn the kids to stick close, especially since scooters and motorcycles do not have to stop at red lights. The best way to cross the street is to follow a local. We buy tickets for the day for the subway and buses. The kids are free, but try to squeeze more than one person through a turn style.
We take the subway up 2 stops-it is a bit crowded, but others get up so the kids can sit. After the subway, we hop onto a mini electric bus to the English College for our Mass tickets. The priest that was supposed to meet us is practicing for Sunday Mass, so we get the tickets and are invited to sit on rehearsal. The chapel here is beautiful and the acoustics are amazing. After about 10 minutes we take advantage of a free and clean toilet and go on our way.
We decided to take the kids to the Vatican. By the time we arrive it is close to 11 and the line is quite long. We stay anyway...ends up to be about 2 hours. As we near the entrance we notice people trying to cut in front of us or behind us. After standing in line for 2 hours, you get to know the people standing next to you. We had some Americans in front and Americans/Spanish behind us.
The first perpetrators are a father and son pair. Jason figures the father will ignore us so he goes for the son telling him in broken Italian that the line does not start here-he is 2 hours behind us. The son looks at his father, says something and they end up leaving. Background...the line (or que) is sacred in England, and no one would think of cutting in. Ever. Not so in Italy-this occurrence is very common.
The second attempt is a group of people who are trying to edge their way in front of us, I cut them off, by spreading the family out and give the man of the group a friendly glare. He ends up continuing his quest for a cut with each group behind us.
Once we are very near the metal detectors, we are also right next to where a bus/subway stop lets out. An Italian family walks right up and cuts in line. The people behind us immediately set into them. There was a yelling match and the Italians effectively ignored us all and cut in line anyway. I told the father that he picked a good place to sin.
Once at the x-ray machines, we are stalled again-Jason had his pocket knife with him. He hands it over and is told he can pick it up when we are done...don't think so, we just said goodbye to the knife.
There are 2 lines to go into St. Peters; one for Pope John Paul II's tomb and one to go into the church. We figured Pope John Paul II wasn't going anywhere so we picked the church. I will never attempt to visit the Basilica during Holy Week again. Half of it was cordoned off and I felt like a cow being herded through. The kids enjoyed the statues, but we will have to visit again during a slower time.
We leave to find some food, coffee, and gelato. We ate lunch in a piazza with a market that I made a visit to with a restless Jillian. I know that saffron in quite a bit cheaper here, so I was on the lookout. Unfortunately the guy selling it was already cleaned up. I did find someone selling bulk spice mixes though and I have enough to last a while-they make great pasta sauces by the way. We used the mini bus again and visit the Pantheon. We really didn't stay much longer as we knew the kids were tired and we had another long day in Rome tomorrow.
We had dinner in Orveito again, Jason spied a small pizzaria filled with locals. It was a tight fit with about only 10 tables and a couch and quite warm as well. Poor Griffen was so tired he started to fall asleep before the food arrived. The dad at the table next to us pointed at the couch and moved his bags off for us to lay Griffen down. Our pizza was fantastic and included a drink and coffee as well.
Apr 25, 2006
Apr 21, 2006
April 14, Orvieto & Civita di Bagnoregio
Originally we had planned to go to Rome today for Stations of the Cross at the Colosseum. Problem with that plan is the last train to Orvieto leaves Rome at 8:30 and Stations are not until 9 and only an insane person would attempt to drive. The priest from the English College in Rome calls and confirms that our tickets have been delivered for Sunday Mass.
We start the morning off at the train station cafe for espresso and bomboloni. We have found that even the train stations make better coffee than the US, the trick is shorter pulls on the shots. Bomboloni are donuts made with a dense brioche type dough, fried of course, filled with jelly, chocolate or custard and sprinkled with sugar. They are the lightest, airiest jelly or custard donut you could ever imagine. We finish off with fresh squeezed blood orange juice.
Jillian decides now would be a good time for a fit-over what I have no idea. A gentleman standing next to us speaking Italian surprises us and starts talking to us in perfect English. Turns out he's some American musician/actor that had been living in Italy for 12 years. He tells me that he was the baby of his family and his sister tells him all the time that he cried quite frequently. Great. He complements us on our kids good looks and tells us to enjoy our stay.
Jillian was just hungry- a glass of milk and a box of crackers later she is just fine. We head up the hill in the funicular and remember to take the bus this time as well. Once in the main square we search for a pharmacy to purchase tissues (Jason & I got colds) and sunscreen (not used to needing that).
We then find the TI office to purchase tickets for the underground tour of Orvieto. While in line Jason talks with another American who tells him how to find a farmhouse to rent for long term and larger groups. We wander around a bit until it is time for the tour to leave.
The guide takes us into some caves under the city. The caves date back to Etruscan times. Later, it is believed that the caves were formed as a way of using building materials for houses and then serving as cellars for food (and wine) storage. We saw evidence of an old olive press, dovecots and wells.
Lunch time. We buy the kids pizza and they eat it on the steps of the Duomo while we sit across from them at a cafe enjoying a pecorino cheese sandwich on fresh farmhouse bread and some Orvieto wine. Back down the hill and into the car for a trip to Civita di Bagnoregio.
The stupid navigation system thinks we are going somewhere else and we end up taking the back way-a winding road in the middle of nowhere with no one on it. Jason called it 'Europe through the window.' Driving through Bagnoregio, a suburb of Civita, we notice the main street is blocked off. I assume this is for the night procession of Stations of the Cross. It is so nice to be in a Catholic country for Holy Week.
Civita is a traffic-free village, the only way in is to walk up a pedestrian bridge. As we reach the top we see a procession approaching us. Leading the procession is a priest surrounded by robbed men and boys. Following them are some men carrying a large wooden 'stretcher' with Jesus lying on it. Townspeople singing follow them. All the tourists step aside and solemnly watch them down the pedestrian bridge and into town.
We turn and walk into this dying village, home to only 14 residents. During peak tourist season you can peak in on an old olive press (1500 years). Last time Jason and I were here we paid the owner 1 Lira to see it and guess at his explanation on how a blindfolded donkey walking in a circle, crushing the olives. Since it is Good Friday and so late in the day, the few new eateries are closed, so we just walk around and step into the church. The crucifix, from the 15th century, is carved out of peach wood and venerated by the locals. I read later that it is the focus of a midnight procession on Good Friday. We walk back to the car and drive to Orvieto for dinner. This time we park ourselves at the top so we don't have to worry about missing the last funicular.
We start the morning off at the train station cafe for espresso and bomboloni. We have found that even the train stations make better coffee than the US, the trick is shorter pulls on the shots. Bomboloni are donuts made with a dense brioche type dough, fried of course, filled with jelly, chocolate or custard and sprinkled with sugar. They are the lightest, airiest jelly or custard donut you could ever imagine. We finish off with fresh squeezed blood orange juice.
Jillian decides now would be a good time for a fit-over what I have no idea. A gentleman standing next to us speaking Italian surprises us and starts talking to us in perfect English. Turns out he's some American musician/actor that had been living in Italy for 12 years. He tells me that he was the baby of his family and his sister tells him all the time that he cried quite frequently. Great. He complements us on our kids good looks and tells us to enjoy our stay.
Jillian was just hungry- a glass of milk and a box of crackers later she is just fine. We head up the hill in the funicular and remember to take the bus this time as well. Once in the main square we search for a pharmacy to purchase tissues (Jason & I got colds) and sunscreen (not used to needing that).
We then find the TI office to purchase tickets for the underground tour of Orvieto. While in line Jason talks with another American who tells him how to find a farmhouse to rent for long term and larger groups. We wander around a bit until it is time for the tour to leave.
The guide takes us into some caves under the city. The caves date back to Etruscan times. Later, it is believed that the caves were formed as a way of using building materials for houses and then serving as cellars for food (and wine) storage. We saw evidence of an old olive press, dovecots and wells.
Lunch time. We buy the kids pizza and they eat it on the steps of the Duomo while we sit across from them at a cafe enjoying a pecorino cheese sandwich on fresh farmhouse bread and some Orvieto wine. Back down the hill and into the car for a trip to Civita di Bagnoregio.
The stupid navigation system thinks we are going somewhere else and we end up taking the back way-a winding road in the middle of nowhere with no one on it. Jason called it 'Europe through the window.' Driving through Bagnoregio, a suburb of Civita, we notice the main street is blocked off. I assume this is for the night procession of Stations of the Cross. It is so nice to be in a Catholic country for Holy Week.
Civita is a traffic-free village, the only way in is to walk up a pedestrian bridge. As we reach the top we see a procession approaching us. Leading the procession is a priest surrounded by robbed men and boys. Following them are some men carrying a large wooden 'stretcher' with Jesus lying on it. Townspeople singing follow them. All the tourists step aside and solemnly watch them down the pedestrian bridge and into town.
We turn and walk into this dying village, home to only 14 residents. During peak tourist season you can peak in on an old olive press (1500 years). Last time Jason and I were here we paid the owner 1 Lira to see it and guess at his explanation on how a blindfolded donkey walking in a circle, crushing the olives. Since it is Good Friday and so late in the day, the few new eateries are closed, so we just walk around and step into the church. The crucifix, from the 15th century, is carved out of peach wood and venerated by the locals. I read later that it is the focus of a midnight procession on Good Friday. We walk back to the car and drive to Orvieto for dinner. This time we park ourselves at the top so we don't have to worry about missing the last funicular.
Apr 20, 2006
April 13, Orvieto
After breakfast, we leave the villa to make our way to Orvieto. First we stop off in Cortona to see if the pottery shop is open. After seeing the prices in Florence and other locations, this shop had good prices. Unfortunately its closed. I end up buying a cute little all purpose jacket instead.
We decided to stop off in Montepulciano on the way to Orvieto. Montepulciano is another medieval city with contrades-only instead of a horse race, the neighborhoods compete by having teams of men push large wine casks uphill. Fitting for a city known for its views and wine. We parked at the bus station and find that today is market day. We make it out with only fresh strawberries for the kids.
After hiking up a hill we see a park, which excites the kids. Jason sets off to explore while I watch over the kids in the park. We let them run off some steam for about half and hour. As it nears lunch time-we drag them from the park in search of food. Being Italy, most shops are closed for the mid-day break. We do spot a pizzeria and each get a slice and sit on the bench outside in the warm sun.
Since this is a wine city-we must stop for a free wine tasting right? We find a small shop that is open and pop in. We get to enjoy little tasters of food as well as wine. Shipping costs were thru the roof-so we only buy 1 bottle to take with us. However we discover a new appetizer...little cubes of pecorino cheese dipped into black truffle scented honey. Imagine the sharp flavor of the cheese contrasting with the sweet honey and nutty musky taste of the truffle; follow that with a sip of red wine and you are in heaven. The kids are bored so we head back to the park for a bit more play and continue our drive to Orvieto.
To save money, we are staying at the bottom of the hill by the train station. After checking in and cleaning up-we take the funicular to the top of the hill where the main city sits. This is a city built on a hill of tufa (volcanic rock) and filled with Etruscan and medieval caves. Of course we forgot about the bus (included in the funicular ticket) that takes you to the top and we walk instead. We spy a lot of ceramic shops here as well-but Cortona had better prices. Despite much whining and complaining-we make it to the top.
Our hike is rewarded by the beautiful facade of Orvieto's Duomo. A bit of history for you: Back in the 1260s, there was a priest who doubted that the Host was really the body of Christ. After a pilgrimage to Rome he stopped of to worship in Bolsena, near Orvieto. During Mass, as he held up the bread-it bled, staining the altar cloth. A pope was visiting Orvieto at the time and the cloth was brought to him. Miracles like this require a church-so Oriveito has a grand Duomo with the cloth on display. As an added touch to the experience of this church-only 25 people are allowed in at a time.
Jason waits outside with the kids as I pop in to see what time Mass is. Its now and the guard tells me there are only about 20 minutes left. We go in anyway. Turns out-we just missed 20 minutes, basically the washing of the feet.
After communion, children begin distributing long white candles to everyone and they are then lit. A priest steps down from the altar and starts walking with the cross. Slowly, everyone in the church walks up the center aisle to follow the cross while singing. Once around the church, two lines are formed and another priest walks thru with the reserved second Host. He is accompanied by someone carrying a little cloth umbrella over him. We all follow him into the side chapel where the consecrated Host is placed. I'm glad we didn't listen to the guard and got to experience this.
Seeing the cross venerated so and the procession for the Host gave me goosebumps. Kaitlyn grumbled before we even went in about how boring church is and why do we even have to go. She had a change of heart after the Mass. We'll see if it lasts for Easter Sunday.
We end the evening with dinner and head down the hill to the funicular. The last car left at 8:20...it is now well past 9. I spot a taxi sign on the door and just as we were getting ready to call, a bus shows up and takes us down to the train station. Time for bed.
We decided to stop off in Montepulciano on the way to Orvieto. Montepulciano is another medieval city with contrades-only instead of a horse race, the neighborhoods compete by having teams of men push large wine casks uphill. Fitting for a city known for its views and wine. We parked at the bus station and find that today is market day. We make it out with only fresh strawberries for the kids.
After hiking up a hill we see a park, which excites the kids. Jason sets off to explore while I watch over the kids in the park. We let them run off some steam for about half and hour. As it nears lunch time-we drag them from the park in search of food. Being Italy, most shops are closed for the mid-day break. We do spot a pizzeria and each get a slice and sit on the bench outside in the warm sun.
Since this is a wine city-we must stop for a free wine tasting right? We find a small shop that is open and pop in. We get to enjoy little tasters of food as well as wine. Shipping costs were thru the roof-so we only buy 1 bottle to take with us. However we discover a new appetizer...little cubes of pecorino cheese dipped into black truffle scented honey. Imagine the sharp flavor of the cheese contrasting with the sweet honey and nutty musky taste of the truffle; follow that with a sip of red wine and you are in heaven. The kids are bored so we head back to the park for a bit more play and continue our drive to Orvieto.
To save money, we are staying at the bottom of the hill by the train station. After checking in and cleaning up-we take the funicular to the top of the hill where the main city sits. This is a city built on a hill of tufa (volcanic rock) and filled with Etruscan and medieval caves. Of course we forgot about the bus (included in the funicular ticket) that takes you to the top and we walk instead. We spy a lot of ceramic shops here as well-but Cortona had better prices. Despite much whining and complaining-we make it to the top.
Our hike is rewarded by the beautiful facade of Orvieto's Duomo. A bit of history for you: Back in the 1260s, there was a priest who doubted that the Host was really the body of Christ. After a pilgrimage to Rome he stopped of to worship in Bolsena, near Orvieto. During Mass, as he held up the bread-it bled, staining the altar cloth. A pope was visiting Orvieto at the time and the cloth was brought to him. Miracles like this require a church-so Oriveito has a grand Duomo with the cloth on display. As an added touch to the experience of this church-only 25 people are allowed in at a time.
Jason waits outside with the kids as I pop in to see what time Mass is. Its now and the guard tells me there are only about 20 minutes left. We go in anyway. Turns out-we just missed 20 minutes, basically the washing of the feet.
After communion, children begin distributing long white candles to everyone and they are then lit. A priest steps down from the altar and starts walking with the cross. Slowly, everyone in the church walks up the center aisle to follow the cross while singing. Once around the church, two lines are formed and another priest walks thru with the reserved second Host. He is accompanied by someone carrying a little cloth umbrella over him. We all follow him into the side chapel where the consecrated Host is placed. I'm glad we didn't listen to the guard and got to experience this.
Seeing the cross venerated so and the procession for the Host gave me goosebumps. Kaitlyn grumbled before we even went in about how boring church is and why do we even have to go. She had a change of heart after the Mass. We'll see if it lasts for Easter Sunday.
We end the evening with dinner and head down the hill to the funicular. The last car left at 8:20...it is now well past 9. I spot a taxi sign on the door and just as we were getting ready to call, a bus shows up and takes us down to the train station. Time for bed.
Apr 19, 2006
April 12, Florence
After much debating we decide to go for it and tackle Florence for the day. As we are leaving the hotel, the receptionist tells us it is much better to take the train than to drive. She gives us directions in case we don't make the train, which leaves in 25 minutes from another village. Good thing we got directions, we missed the train by mere minutes, after blower €10 on parking. Once we find out way into Florence to park at the train station-we can see why the receptionist told us to take the train. There are scooters and cars everywhere and the lines in the road serve as nothing more than suggestions to where to drive.
The big city is much more stressful with the kids especially when Jillian refuses to sit in the stroller, then refuses to walk and then refuses to let Jason carry her. My hips are killing me at this point and she has no choice. The terrible two's have hit our sweet little girl with avengeancee and we now have a screaming terror. I walk ahead with the other 2 while Jason lags behind with a screaming Jillian.
We stop off for a very expensive lunch and head over to Giotto's Tower and the Duomo. I can't believe how black the marble is on the Duomo. In fact most of it is covered up for cleaning at the moment. We take a few picture outside, and head indoors. The kids light candles and say prayers and we gaze up at the huge dome.
Outside to regroup...we are entertained by the illegal vendors trying to avoid the police. The top designers have gotten fed up with the fake stuff being sold so the police have really cracked down on the vendors and even fine buyers a large amount of money. The vendors have portable cardboard displays that they pick up and walk away with whenever the police drive by, then about 5 minutes later they return only to play the same game again on the next drive by.
Next stop-the Academia. Although we called ahead for reservations, we still wait in line for a good 30 minutes (vs the 3+ hours for those without reservations). So far everywhere we have gone, Jillian and Griffen get in for free and sometimes even Kaitlyn. The kids were in awe over Michelangelo's David. Most of the museum is closed due to construction but that is about all the kids can handle anyway. We set off for some more gelato and a view of the Arno River from Ponte Vecchio. The crowds are immense and the kids are tired so we make our way back to the car and out of Florence.
All afternoon Kaitlyn has been moaning about her shoes hurting her feet and Griffen's toes are ready to shoot out the top of his, so we keep our eyes open for a shoe store. As luck would have it there is an Outlet Mall about 10 miles from the Villa. Kaitlyn scores with a pair of bright pink trainers and Griffen picks up some Pumas (all the little Italian boys wear Pumas and sweats). Jason finds a few shirts-styled much differently than US shirts! They are shorter in the sleeve and body as well as a bit more form fitting. Give him a hard time if you see him in one.
We eat another yummy dinner at the hotel. Kids got plain pasta and steak. I get an artichoke appetizer with a cheesey fondue kind of sauce and Jason gets asparagus. We both order the penne with ragu and have a bottle of local red wine. I go for the coffee creme brulee and Jason has a repeat of the dessert he ordered previously. The kids sit in the reception area drawing their depictions of David for Adriana (much to my horror) while we drink our espresso. The receptionist offers to take the kids to meet the chef after they claimed their food was the best ever. Another couple eating dinner next to us compliment the kids on their behavior. We are proud parents, despite the David portraits.
The big city is much more stressful with the kids especially when Jillian refuses to sit in the stroller, then refuses to walk and then refuses to let Jason carry her. My hips are killing me at this point and she has no choice. The terrible two's have hit our sweet little girl with avengeancee and we now have a screaming terror. I walk ahead with the other 2 while Jason lags behind with a screaming Jillian.
We stop off for a very expensive lunch and head over to Giotto's Tower and the Duomo. I can't believe how black the marble is on the Duomo. In fact most of it is covered up for cleaning at the moment. We take a few picture outside, and head indoors. The kids light candles and say prayers and we gaze up at the huge dome.
Outside to regroup...we are entertained by the illegal vendors trying to avoid the police. The top designers have gotten fed up with the fake stuff being sold so the police have really cracked down on the vendors and even fine buyers a large amount of money. The vendors have portable cardboard displays that they pick up and walk away with whenever the police drive by, then about 5 minutes later they return only to play the same game again on the next drive by.
Next stop-the Academia. Although we called ahead for reservations, we still wait in line for a good 30 minutes (vs the 3+ hours for those without reservations). So far everywhere we have gone, Jillian and Griffen get in for free and sometimes even Kaitlyn. The kids were in awe over Michelangelo's David. Most of the museum is closed due to construction but that is about all the kids can handle anyway. We set off for some more gelato and a view of the Arno River from Ponte Vecchio. The crowds are immense and the kids are tired so we make our way back to the car and out of Florence.
All afternoon Kaitlyn has been moaning about her shoes hurting her feet and Griffen's toes are ready to shoot out the top of his, so we keep our eyes open for a shoe store. As luck would have it there is an Outlet Mall about 10 miles from the Villa. Kaitlyn scores with a pair of bright pink trainers and Griffen picks up some Pumas (all the little Italian boys wear Pumas and sweats). Jason finds a few shirts-styled much differently than US shirts! They are shorter in the sleeve and body as well as a bit more form fitting. Give him a hard time if you see him in one.
We eat another yummy dinner at the hotel. Kids got plain pasta and steak. I get an artichoke appetizer with a cheesey fondue kind of sauce and Jason gets asparagus. We both order the penne with ragu and have a bottle of local red wine. I go for the coffee creme brulee and Jason has a repeat of the dessert he ordered previously. The kids sit in the reception area drawing their depictions of David for Adriana (much to my horror) while we drink our espresso. The receptionist offers to take the kids to meet the chef after they claimed their food was the best ever. Another couple eating dinner next to us compliment the kids on their behavior. We are proud parents, despite the David portraits.
Apr 18, 2006
April 11, Cortona & Siena
I took a cooking class at the hotel with four other guests. The wife half of the owners, Adriana, taught the class. She said she learned to cook from her mother. Menu: crostini with tomato or olives, homemade pasta with a cream of zucchini sauce and cantuccini (a biscotti type cookie) for dessert.
Jason stayed in the room until Jillian fell asleep while Griffen and Kaitlyn sat in the reception area reading books and coloring pictures. Once Jillian fell asleep, Jason came down to play with them. As they got bored, they came to peek on me in the kitchen. Adriana gave the kids a cookie and welcomed Jason to try the crostini. During this time Jason was talking to the husband half, who teased the kids that there was a witch in the wine cellar. I believe his name is Damien and he his part of the family who owns the Wimpole farm not too far away from us in the UK.
After we finished cooking our food (and 2 glasses of wine later), we sat down to eat what we made and more wine. The staff set a place for Jason and I sent the kids off to find him. They got sidetracked by the offer of eating lunch with the staff in the kitchen. Jason found his way to the table after checking on the sleeping baby (her only real nap the whole trip).
After lunch we made our way to Siena, home of the Palio and St. Catherine. The Palio is a horse race that dates back over 800 years and is held twice a year in July and August. Residents wear medieval clothing to flaunt their neighborhood's pride in a parade and race. There are 17 contrade(neighborhoods) in Siena but only 10 are chosen to race, which is why the race is held 2 times. From what I have read, this can turn into a bloody race and is best viewed without young eyes. The winners receive a banner painted by a local artist and always features the Virgin Mary as well as the right to boast that their contrada in the best.
It was late afternoon by the time we got here and cold wind had picked up as well. So far we have only bought the kids some masks from Venice, so when they saw a store full of Pinoochios we let them each pick out one. Afterwards we head to the main square and let the kids chase pigeons for a while. After dinner we head back to the villa in Cortona.
Jason stayed in the room until Jillian fell asleep while Griffen and Kaitlyn sat in the reception area reading books and coloring pictures. Once Jillian fell asleep, Jason came down to play with them. As they got bored, they came to peek on me in the kitchen. Adriana gave the kids a cookie and welcomed Jason to try the crostini. During this time Jason was talking to the husband half, who teased the kids that there was a witch in the wine cellar. I believe his name is Damien and he his part of the family who owns the Wimpole farm not too far away from us in the UK.
After we finished cooking our food (and 2 glasses of wine later), we sat down to eat what we made and more wine. The staff set a place for Jason and I sent the kids off to find him. They got sidetracked by the offer of eating lunch with the staff in the kitchen. Jason found his way to the table after checking on the sleeping baby (her only real nap the whole trip).
After lunch we made our way to Siena, home of the Palio and St. Catherine. The Palio is a horse race that dates back over 800 years and is held twice a year in July and August. Residents wear medieval clothing to flaunt their neighborhood's pride in a parade and race. There are 17 contrade(neighborhoods) in Siena but only 10 are chosen to race, which is why the race is held 2 times. From what I have read, this can turn into a bloody race and is best viewed without young eyes. The winners receive a banner painted by a local artist and always features the Virgin Mary as well as the right to boast that their contrada in the best.
It was late afternoon by the time we got here and cold wind had picked up as well. So far we have only bought the kids some masks from Venice, so when they saw a store full of Pinoochios we let them each pick out one. Afterwards we head to the main square and let the kids chase pigeons for a while. After dinner we head back to the villa in Cortona.
April 10, Cortona
Our villa here outside Cortona is absolutely fantastic. We have a large room where you can see the original wood beams and stone floor. The staff is great as well. They seem to love our blond blue & green eyed children and never hesitate to stroke Jillian's cheeks.
Last night after a glass of wine in the courtyard, we had dinner in the hotel. Pasta for the kids, soup starter for Jas & I followed by steak for Jas and bacon wrapped pork for me. Oh and some wine. For desert Kaitlyn had a coffee creme brulee. Jason had some carmelized pear and I had a strawberry tart with cream followed of course by espresso. Ok-the food here is good, not much worth mentioning in Venice-but here is another story.
We explored Cortona today. What a charming village of Tuscany. Hints of Etruscan life are everywhere. We decided on getting lunch from the grocery in the main piazza. The kids scarfed down pizzettes (small hand sized cheese pizzas) while Jason and I enjoyed eggplant, peppers and cheese on toasted foccia. Of course the meal isn't complete without a scoop of gelato.
The kids were playing on the steps of a bank while Jason and I contemplated our next move. A women came up the steps and tipped Kaitlyn's chin to see her eyes while saying "bella, bella bella." Like I said-a very family friendly country.
Despite the constant grumbling we forced our very ungrateful children to climb to the top of town and see the Medici Fortress. As we were walking a gentleman passed by and said something to us in French. (I was also approached in Venice by a French speaking teen). When I gave him a blank look he said "Non Francaise?" I responded, "no, American." "Oh, well happy walking."
We made it about halfway before realizing that the stroller was NOT going to make it up the ancient cobblestone road. We abandoned it and carried Jillian instead. Upon reaching the top, a bar was waiting for us ready to make an espresso at our request.
No sooner had we finished when the skies opened up with an April shower. Earlier, as we left the hotel, we decided coats were not needed and only had 1 umbrella between the 5 of us. Jason and Griffen decided to walk down the hill to fetch the car while the girls and I waited under the shelter of the Church of St. Margaret. Being a Monday and midday-both the church and the Fortress were closed. After about 5 minutes the rain let up and we walked down to catch up with the boys who were waiting by a soaked stroller. (gotta love cell phones)
We made it back to Cortona before the rain really let loose. We also found a nice pottery shop with reasonable prices...must come back on a driving weekend to stock up on pottery and wine.
Dinner tonight was at La Tufa in Ossaia, a nearby village. We were the first to arrive at 7:15 (most restaurants in Italy don't open for dinner until 7:30). By the time we left it was 9 and the restaurant, a recommendation by hotel staff, was packed with locals. The parking lot was a dirt plot up the hill and we almost couldn't make it out with all the other cars that arrived after we did.
Our dinner was delicious-Kaitlyn ate pizza, Griffen cleaned up a whole bowl of minestrone soup and ate a bit of everyone else's food. Jillian ate almost a whole bowl of pasta-penne with a meat ragú, Jason & I each had bowls of pasta mine was a short cut spinach pasta with tomato sauce followed by some steak sautéd with cherry tomatoes, rocket (arugula) and pecorino cheese smothered in a healthy portion of olive oil. I can still taste it. Add the requisite bottle of wine, desert and espressso and dinner is complete.
Last night after a glass of wine in the courtyard, we had dinner in the hotel. Pasta for the kids, soup starter for Jas & I followed by steak for Jas and bacon wrapped pork for me. Oh and some wine. For desert Kaitlyn had a coffee creme brulee. Jason had some carmelized pear and I had a strawberry tart with cream followed of course by espresso. Ok-the food here is good, not much worth mentioning in Venice-but here is another story.
We explored Cortona today. What a charming village of Tuscany. Hints of Etruscan life are everywhere. We decided on getting lunch from the grocery in the main piazza. The kids scarfed down pizzettes (small hand sized cheese pizzas) while Jason and I enjoyed eggplant, peppers and cheese on toasted foccia. Of course the meal isn't complete without a scoop of gelato.
The kids were playing on the steps of a bank while Jason and I contemplated our next move. A women came up the steps and tipped Kaitlyn's chin to see her eyes while saying "bella, bella bella." Like I said-a very family friendly country.
Despite the constant grumbling we forced our very ungrateful children to climb to the top of town and see the Medici Fortress. As we were walking a gentleman passed by and said something to us in French. (I was also approached in Venice by a French speaking teen). When I gave him a blank look he said "Non Francaise?" I responded, "no, American." "Oh, well happy walking."
We made it about halfway before realizing that the stroller was NOT going to make it up the ancient cobblestone road. We abandoned it and carried Jillian instead. Upon reaching the top, a bar was waiting for us ready to make an espresso at our request.
No sooner had we finished when the skies opened up with an April shower. Earlier, as we left the hotel, we decided coats were not needed and only had 1 umbrella between the 5 of us. Jason and Griffen decided to walk down the hill to fetch the car while the girls and I waited under the shelter of the Church of St. Margaret. Being a Monday and midday-both the church and the Fortress were closed. After about 5 minutes the rain let up and we walked down to catch up with the boys who were waiting by a soaked stroller. (gotta love cell phones)
We made it back to Cortona before the rain really let loose. We also found a nice pottery shop with reasonable prices...must come back on a driving weekend to stock up on pottery and wine.
Dinner tonight was at La Tufa in Ossaia, a nearby village. We were the first to arrive at 7:15 (most restaurants in Italy don't open for dinner until 7:30). By the time we left it was 9 and the restaurant, a recommendation by hotel staff, was packed with locals. The parking lot was a dirt plot up the hill and we almost couldn't make it out with all the other cars that arrived after we did.
Our dinner was delicious-Kaitlyn ate pizza, Griffen cleaned up a whole bowl of minestrone soup and ate a bit of everyone else's food. Jillian ate almost a whole bowl of pasta-penne with a meat ragú, Jason & I each had bowls of pasta mine was a short cut spinach pasta with tomato sauce followed by some steak sautéd with cherry tomatoes, rocket (arugula) and pecorino cheese smothered in a healthy portion of olive oil. I can still taste it. Add the requisite bottle of wine, desert and espressso and dinner is complete.
April 9, Venice
Leaving Venice today. Started off the morning with church bells as our alarm clock. We learned from our gondolier that there are 141 churches in Venice. After cleaning up, we headed off to San Marco for Palm Sunday Mass. While Palm Sunday is notoriously 1.5 hours in the US, we were in and out in under an hour. Amazing how much time singing takes. The kids got their palms, (olive branches here) and we listened to the Passion of Christ under a ceiling of gold mosaics and in Italian.
After breakfast we left Venice and its canals behind. Our next stop, Marco Polo airport to pick up a rental car. Too bad Jason lost his driver's license-he can't drive. After squeezing 4 suitcases, 2 rucksacks, and 1 stroller in our Alfa Romeo-I set off for Cortona. I am so used to driving in the UK now-I had to think about which side to drive on.
Although we were on the freeway-the Italians still made their own way a few times. Ex: drive on a 2 lane road in the right lane, get passed on the left and have another impatient driver make his own lane to the left of that.
We stopped in a small town outside Bologna for lunch. The only place we could find open on a Sunday was a little bar with no English spoken at all. We ordered the kids a pizza and we got little sandwiches and some white wine and a liter of sparkling water. The man (always seems to be an older married couple working) brought us a few more appetizers-ham and figs and what we think was bologna. We ended with an espresso and ice cream for the kids.
I wasn't driving fast enough for Jason so he took over for the rest of the 4 hour drive. Good thing too-most of the driving was well over 80-90 mph and we traversed what must've been 20+ bridges and really long tunnels. I hate bridges. And now I hate tunnels-especially 900 meter tunnels. I think I have developed a bit of claustrophobia.
After breakfast we left Venice and its canals behind. Our next stop, Marco Polo airport to pick up a rental car. Too bad Jason lost his driver's license-he can't drive. After squeezing 4 suitcases, 2 rucksacks, and 1 stroller in our Alfa Romeo-I set off for Cortona. I am so used to driving in the UK now-I had to think about which side to drive on.
Although we were on the freeway-the Italians still made their own way a few times. Ex: drive on a 2 lane road in the right lane, get passed on the left and have another impatient driver make his own lane to the left of that.
We stopped in a small town outside Bologna for lunch. The only place we could find open on a Sunday was a little bar with no English spoken at all. We ordered the kids a pizza and we got little sandwiches and some white wine and a liter of sparkling water. The man (always seems to be an older married couple working) brought us a few more appetizers-ham and figs and what we think was bologna. We ended with an espresso and ice cream for the kids.
I wasn't driving fast enough for Jason so he took over for the rest of the 4 hour drive. Good thing too-most of the driving was well over 80-90 mph and we traversed what must've been 20+ bridges and really long tunnels. I hate bridges. And now I hate tunnels-especially 900 meter tunnels. I think I have developed a bit of claustrophobia.
April 8, Venice
Woke up after a good night sleep and had breakfast in the hotel. Jason cancelled is debit card and filed a police report. We head out to Murano on a free boat from the hotel. A smooth talking rep from the glass factory is waiting to show you in upon arrival. Large tour groups were being shown a demonstration of the ancient art of glass making while we got a 'personal' interpreter. The factory we visited was housed is an old church-you could feel the heat of the furnaces. After the demonstration our 'personal interpreter' took us into the showroom to see all the glass-pretty smooth talking to attempt a sale. We declined using Jason's loss of cards as a reason and walked away empty handed.
After glancing in a few shops down the road, we pop into one and let the kids spend some money on trinkets. Griffen really wanted to pay for his own but only had some loose change. The old couple in the shop understood this and took his money and Jason's on the side. They then gave each of the kids a little glass toy. The Italians are absolutely great with kids-it has been really easy traveling with them so far. After the shop we decide to head back to Venice, but we missed the boat. Then next one comes in about an hour-so we wonder. Across the water there is a church with a boat in front carrying a casket. We decide not to cross the bridge yet as a crowd in dark clothes has gathered and a priest is saying a prayer before bringing the casket into the church.
Kaitlyn is desperate for a toilet so I take the older 2 and set off for a quick search. We find one in the park and Kaitlyn has her first experience with an Italian toilet...a hole in the ground. At least it was a porcelain hole. We spy a vaporetto and head back to Venice. Lunch-more pizza and gelato and strawberries from the market. We are tired of carrying Jillian around and go back to those 75 steps and get the stroller. We still have to pick up the stroller every time we cross a bridge-but that is less exhausting than carting her around full time.
Next we find a mask shop I had read about and wanted to visit. The shop owners are there and they show us how they make the masks-the wife does the painting herself. They welcome us to look around and answer any questions we have-even giving us the full history behind the masks of Venice and what the different types represent. Kaitlyn and Griffen watch another woman painting in one of the rooms for a good 30 minutes while Jason and I decide on our purchase. Jillian is entertained by the shop dog. We make our selection-pay in cash for a discount and ask him not to mail until the next week. The masks we picked out are original pieces of art-a better purchase for us to add to our collection than a glass vase.
After glancing in a few shops down the road, we pop into one and let the kids spend some money on trinkets. Griffen really wanted to pay for his own but only had some loose change. The old couple in the shop understood this and took his money and Jason's on the side. They then gave each of the kids a little glass toy. The Italians are absolutely great with kids-it has been really easy traveling with them so far. After the shop we decide to head back to Venice, but we missed the boat. Then next one comes in about an hour-so we wonder. Across the water there is a church with a boat in front carrying a casket. We decide not to cross the bridge yet as a crowd in dark clothes has gathered and a priest is saying a prayer before bringing the casket into the church.
Kaitlyn is desperate for a toilet so I take the older 2 and set off for a quick search. We find one in the park and Kaitlyn has her first experience with an Italian toilet...a hole in the ground. At least it was a porcelain hole. We spy a vaporetto and head back to Venice. Lunch-more pizza and gelato and strawberries from the market. We are tired of carrying Jillian around and go back to those 75 steps and get the stroller. We still have to pick up the stroller every time we cross a bridge-but that is less exhausting than carting her around full time.
Next we find a mask shop I had read about and wanted to visit. The shop owners are there and they show us how they make the masks-the wife does the painting herself. They welcome us to look around and answer any questions we have-even giving us the full history behind the masks of Venice and what the different types represent. Kaitlyn and Griffen watch another woman painting in one of the rooms for a good 30 minutes while Jason and I decide on our purchase. Jillian is entertained by the shop dog. We make our selection-pay in cash for a discount and ask him not to mail until the next week. The masks we picked out are original pieces of art-a better purchase for us to add to our collection than a glass vase.
April 7, Venice
We arrived in Venice today, Jason's birthday. It was a bit of an ordeal getting here. Before leaving we debated what mode of transportation we should bring for Jillian: backpack or stroller. Jason thought the crowds would hinder the backpack so we chose the stroller. After landing at an airport about 40 minutes away from Venice (reason why Ryanair is soo cheap), we took a bus to the edge of Venice and hopped on a vaporetto (public water bus).
After discovering our hotel was on the other side of the canal, we had to struggle over the Rialto bridge with Jason carrying 2 rolling suitcases and 1 backpack; each of the kids had their own rolling suitcase and I had the baby and stroller. Go ahead and laugh. Somehow Jason got over with Griffen while a kind American tourist took pity on Kaitlyn, Jillian and I and insisted she help us. Once over the bridge we walked down an alleyway to our hotel. It sounded great in our guidebook as well as online. However, we must've skipped over the reason why it is the cheapest hotel looking over the Grand Canal, it's on the 3rd floor which means 75 steps to climb. After reaching the top, the kind receptionist met us with fresh glasses of orange juice. Our room looked out over the Grand Canal and the Rialto Bridge-beautiful!
After cleaning up a bit we set off to wander Venice for the day-without the stroller.
First things first-a cup of espresso and pizza. As we were walking around, Jason stopped off at an ATM for cash. Minutes after leaving the ATM machine he stops and says to me, "I feel like something just fell down my leg." I looked down and spotted his credit card (we were using money belts to protect from pick pockets). Quick stop off for our first gelato of the vacation. Next time Jillian gets a cup not a cone.
We took turns carrying Jillian when she tired of walking and made our way to the back canals away from the crowds.
Mid-afternoon we are approached by a Gondolier and haggle over a price for a 45 minute ride. He takes us on a nice ride through the more quiet canals vs the busy, noisy Grand Canal, pointing out interesting places along the way-Vivaldi's home, Marco Polo's home etc. After our ride we head over to the bustling St. Mark's Square. The Piazza is full of tourists and pigeons. Jason take the older 2 up the Campanile (Bell Tower) to hear the bells while I wander the Piazza listening to the dueling orchestras outside the cafes. Jillian falls asleep in my arms becoming dead weight as I long for the backpack we didn't bring. Time for another espresso.
We end the day with a decent dinner and tired kids. Once we are in our room reorienting ourselves, Jason discovers that his credit card wasn't the only thing he lost...he also lost his health insurance card, UK debit card and CA driver's license. So much for the money belt. Luckily no one else found them either and they are now out with the trash of Venice.
After discovering our hotel was on the other side of the canal, we had to struggle over the Rialto bridge with Jason carrying 2 rolling suitcases and 1 backpack; each of the kids had their own rolling suitcase and I had the baby and stroller. Go ahead and laugh. Somehow Jason got over with Griffen while a kind American tourist took pity on Kaitlyn, Jillian and I and insisted she help us. Once over the bridge we walked down an alleyway to our hotel. It sounded great in our guidebook as well as online. However, we must've skipped over the reason why it is the cheapest hotel looking over the Grand Canal, it's on the 3rd floor which means 75 steps to climb. After reaching the top, the kind receptionist met us with fresh glasses of orange juice. Our room looked out over the Grand Canal and the Rialto Bridge-beautiful!
After cleaning up a bit we set off to wander Venice for the day-without the stroller.
First things first-a cup of espresso and pizza. As we were walking around, Jason stopped off at an ATM for cash. Minutes after leaving the ATM machine he stops and says to me, "I feel like something just fell down my leg." I looked down and spotted his credit card (we were using money belts to protect from pick pockets). Quick stop off for our first gelato of the vacation. Next time Jillian gets a cup not a cone.
We took turns carrying Jillian when she tired of walking and made our way to the back canals away from the crowds.
Mid-afternoon we are approached by a Gondolier and haggle over a price for a 45 minute ride. He takes us on a nice ride through the more quiet canals vs the busy, noisy Grand Canal, pointing out interesting places along the way-Vivaldi's home, Marco Polo's home etc. After our ride we head over to the bustling St. Mark's Square. The Piazza is full of tourists and pigeons. Jason take the older 2 up the Campanile (Bell Tower) to hear the bells while I wander the Piazza listening to the dueling orchestras outside the cafes. Jillian falls asleep in my arms becoming dead weight as I long for the backpack we didn't bring. Time for another espresso.
We end the day with a decent dinner and tired kids. Once we are in our room reorienting ourselves, Jason discovers that his credit card wasn't the only thing he lost...he also lost his health insurance card, UK debit card and CA driver's license. So much for the money belt. Luckily no one else found them either and they are now out with the trash of Venice.
Apr 3, 2006
Italy
We are off to Italy! As a teaser for you, here are the links to where we will be staying...
Antica Locanda Sturion, Venice Room with a view of the Grand Canal for Jason's birthday.
Villa de Piazzano, Cortona Tuscany
Hotel Picchio, Orvieto What-you thought another fancy hotel?! While we did splurge a little with the other 2, we do need to save some for other adventures.
Also, we had to find a place to stay outside Rome, because the only hotel we could find offered us the very special rate of €780/night! Orvieto is about a 75 minute train ride from Rome. I hope the Italians don't think that Holy Week would be a good time for the rail workers to strike.
Have a nice Easter...
Also, we had to find a place to stay outside Rome, because the only hotel we could find offered us the very special rate of €780/night! Orvieto is about a 75 minute train ride from Rome. I hope the Italians don't think that Holy Week would be a good time for the rail workers to strike.
Have a nice Easter...
The Cotswolds
We spent the weekend in the Cotswolds, an area of Gloucestershire. The region was prosperous in medieval times with its wool industry. The roofs and walls of the houses are made of limestone and green pastures separate the villages. Ramblers flock to the many public footpaths located here as well. Just an FYI: Once a year a "Mass Trespass," of the country's 50,000 miles of public footpaths is organized. As long as the path is used at least once a year, the landlords cannot put up fences. Paths found blocked may be unblocked! The English love their walks.
We visited quite a few of the villages-some full of tourists, and some pleasantly quiet. One of the villages (most touristy but also most fun for the kids) had a stone model of the village and a huge model train. Our B&B was in a quiet village-a 600 year old house at that! Jason and the older kids slept in the attic while Jillian and I were downstairs in room 3. We enjoyed a nice breakfast (Jason went for the English breakfast while I opted for whiskey porridge) with another American couple living in England.
Sunday morning we went to church in an old Church of England church built in the late 1800's and bought by a French Catholic layman in the 1920's. We then enjoyed a picnic in the car, as the wind was gusting around 50 mph. It knocked little Jilly down when we stopped to look at Broadway Tower. After our picnic, Jason went on an hour horseback ride while Griffen and Kaitlyn had a 30 minute lesson followed by a 30 minute ride. Although Jason claims he can ride, this was his first experience on English saddle-quite a bit smaller than western! I took Jillian out for a ramble in the backpack. I found a public footpath and decided to see where it led me...through a field of chickens. The chickens were followed by a field of mud and a gate leading to a field of sheep and their lambs. Just as I was about to open the gate, they all ran towards me. I'm not quite sure of all the rules on public footpaths, and I didn't feel I could open the gate without an escapee, so I turned around. After Jason's ride he informed me his guide told him the room Jillian and I stayed is said to be haunted. Great-maybe thats why she had a night terror in the depths of night. Here are some photos...you can click on them for a larger view.
The family in front of the model village.
A field at sunset
Broadway Tower
The Vine B&B-the attic windows are at the top
We visited quite a few of the villages-some full of tourists, and some pleasantly quiet. One of the villages (most touristy but also most fun for the kids) had a stone model of the village and a huge model train. Our B&B was in a quiet village-a 600 year old house at that! Jason and the older kids slept in the attic while Jillian and I were downstairs in room 3. We enjoyed a nice breakfast (Jason went for the English breakfast while I opted for whiskey porridge) with another American couple living in England.
Sunday morning we went to church in an old Church of England church built in the late 1800's and bought by a French Catholic layman in the 1920's. We then enjoyed a picnic in the car, as the wind was gusting around 50 mph. It knocked little Jilly down when we stopped to look at Broadway Tower. After our picnic, Jason went on an hour horseback ride while Griffen and Kaitlyn had a 30 minute lesson followed by a 30 minute ride. Although Jason claims he can ride, this was his first experience on English saddle-quite a bit smaller than western! I took Jillian out for a ramble in the backpack. I found a public footpath and decided to see where it led me...through a field of chickens. The chickens were followed by a field of mud and a gate leading to a field of sheep and their lambs. Just as I was about to open the gate, they all ran towards me. I'm not quite sure of all the rules on public footpaths, and I didn't feel I could open the gate without an escapee, so I turned around. After Jason's ride he informed me his guide told him the room Jillian and I stayed is said to be haunted. Great-maybe thats why she had a night terror in the depths of night. Here are some photos...you can click on them for a larger view.
The family in front of the model village.
A field at sunset
Broadway Tower
The Vine B&B-the attic windows are at the top
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